With the fast pace that is fashion, it seems like NYFW was already so last season (even though it was only three weeks ago) but it couldn’t be more NOW…as we have just learned TODAY some game-changing results.
I realize we’ve talked about fashion week changes for some time now, and although we’ve already seen quite a few “see now buy now” opportunities this fashion month, that’s likely only the beginning of what’s to come…
When we started discussing these changes, I had mentioned that the CFDA had brought in a consulting group to really get to the root of the problem, as well as come up with solutions. And today’s the day we finally get those results. Some you already knew, but some might just surprise you.
I’m not going to get all technical on you (although I secretly LOVE market research…it’s the marketing major in me) but just so you don’t have to read all 13 pages of the study, I thought I’d make this super easy. So when you maybe see less fashion shows next season or the fact that you can buy everything straight from the runway, or you see a change in what’s on the floor of your favorite store…you’ll know why.
For this study, there were 50 interviews conducted, with a mix of designers, fashion executives, wholesalers, online retailers, editors, organizers, casting agents, fashion bloggers, etc. One main reason I wanted to share this with you because we’re not all designers or editors, so as a traditional consumer, I want to know what YOU think the problems are and what change(s) YOU would like to see. But in the mean time, here’s whats going down in the fashion world right now (makes me feel better that Chicago isn’t the only one feeling unfocused).
In various posts I have mentioned that consumer behavior has changed many aspects of the fashion industry — technology has made everything more accessible (perhaps why I no longer fashion week), deliveries don’t align with the current season (this results in early markdowns…great for us, not so much for the retailers / designers), we see it now and we want to buy / wear it now, fast fashion is delivering trends before designers can (ouch!) and my favorite… “accelerated adoption” (AKA “fashionably early” AKA I’m sick of everything before it hits stores). Hey you’re the consumer…are you behaving this way?
So what are the challenges that stem from this? The number one answer from this study is that the deliveries us consumers perceive as “early” (meaning spring hitting stores while it’s still freezing in February) really hurt full price sales. By the time we can actually wear these clothes, they’re already marked down (again YAY for me and sorry for my boys Jack and Lazaro…and every other designer out there). Other issues are the fact that due to everything being so instant and accessible, we think there’s nothing new. We’ve already seen it. Been there, done that. Because of this, designers are getting burnt out. They’re like WHAT DO YOU EXPECT FROM US?! Not everyone is a creative genius like Kanye thinks he is. You can’t rush the process!
Those were just the top issues but you can head to the CFDA’s website for more. Now I this isn’t a 99 fashion problems but a solution ain’t one sort of situation. Because we have solutions galore!!! The big one was implementing bi-annual in-season consumer activations. Say what? This means holding consumer-focused events (meaning for YOU) twice a year, that reflect the current season. And this can be anything — it doesn’t have to be a traditional fashion show (but it can be). Other ideas they threw out there — digital campaigns, parties / events, short films, high production entertainment (think Wang party at NYFW), brands / designers partnering with retailers, etc. The best part? It doesn’t need to be during fashion week! So you don’t have to worry about conflicting with Marc or Ralph…a win-win, right? (sort of…)
Obviously with every solution, there can be more problems. The interviewees had concerns like the risk of compromising creativity (could come off as too commercial, especially when compared to the European brands), it could be more costly to hold these in-season activations as well as the already established press appointments, and generally re-thinking press strategies so the media can keep you excited about this collection from the time you first see it to the time it hits stores (and for some pieces, are now almost immediately).
My favorite solution (and it seems like the CFDA’s too…although they say they’re not taking any sides) would be to offer a “see now buy now” capsule within the collection (which many designers have already done this season). This would satisfy those who need instant gratification (*raises hand*) as well as maintain long term excitement (you can’t give it all up front!) They also mentioned merging mens and womenswear into one show as another option (which again…we’ve already been seeing). I’m a fan of this direction, as I don’t really pay attention during the mens shows, so this would be a way for those collections to get more love (and not just from me!)
So, yes…marketing major / fashion enthusiast Jena LOVES THIS SHIT. And I hope you do too 🙂 The whole reason I put this together is so 1) you don’t have to read the entire study yourself (and if you want to, by all means…go for it!) and 2) they interviewed only people in the fashion industry, so I want to know what YOU think of all of this. Do you find yourself agreeing with any of those consumer behaviors (confusion when seeing sundresses for sale while there’s snow on the ground, always thinking there’s nothing new to buy, seeing trends at fast fashion stores before they hit the boutiques / department stores, etc.)? What challenges do you face as a consumer? What solution(s) would you like to see happen? And I can’t help but wonder…this is all information based on New York Fashion Week. If we actually implement these changes, who knows what international designers will follow? We might just have a fashion month global phenomenon on our hands!
PS. To fully align with one of the problems mentioned here (although like I said, it’s kind of great for us) — Shopbop is having their spring sale right now…and you don’t want to miss it (even if you can’t wear any of it now!) Get up to 25% off using code BIGEVENT16 at checkout from now until Saturday at midnight. You’re welcome.
Images via Vogue. Info via CFDA.
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